Any adjustment of the hydrant should be done before backfilling. It is important that no fine particles of sand which might enter and block the drain opening can do so. A container such as a heavy plastic bucket placed upside down around the valve will also aid the quick draining.
When the hydrant is closed, the water in the hydrant’s vertical pipe should drain into the gravel area at the base of the hydrant.Īdd another layer of clean, coarse stone to a level at least 3 inches above the drain opening in the brass housing at the base of the frost-proof hydrant. When the hydrant is open, water should exit from the tap opening. (Use a hose pipe to take the water away from your working area). Test the function of the hydrant and check for leaks by introducing water to the line. Secure the hydrant to the support post using strong cable ties or pipe clips. Do not over tighten as you may damage the brass valve at the base of the hydrant. PTFE tape should be used on all threaded joints. Connect the water line to the fitting at the base, using appropriate methods. Attach a T-fitting to the bottom of the hydrant if the water line continues to other fixtures. The yard hydrant will sit on this base.Īttach an elbow to the base of the hydrant if the hydrant is the end of the water line. Stop when you backfill to the level of 4ft.įill the base of the excavation hole with ¾” gravel (gravel screened to a minimum size of ¾”), At least one cubic yard of this clean, coarse stone must be placed underneath the stop-and-drain valve of the hydrant. Place a four by four post, cut to about seven feet long and treated for ground contact in the post hole, orient the post correctly according to where you want the outlet of the hydrant to point and backfill the post hole with dirt, tamping the dirt firmly after every couple of shovels full. This will be for the post which will support the hydrant. Go down about another foot in one spot for the support post (about 5ft deep). (British Isles- Max 2- 3ft) Check locally The frost line is defined as the depth in the ground which reaches freezing temperatures during the winter months and varies from area to area. It must be about 1ft below the frost line for your area. The hole must be at least 4ft deep and wide enough to work in. A free draining area is best and a south facing aspect is ideal as it will get some heat from the sun. Hydrants should be located where they will not be subject to damage by livestock or machinery and should be convenient for filling watering troughs for animals.
Most do-it-yourselfers can install a frost-proof hydrant, although the project involves excavation to a level below the frost line.Ĭhose your site. Each time the hydrant is shut off, the water in the upright portion of the pipe drains out of holes in the base of the pipe, leaving no water in any portion of the hydrant subject to freezing conditions. Frost-proof hydrants operate with a control lever and hose connector tap above ground, while the operating valve is below ground at a depth where freezing conditions do not occur. How Do I Install a Frost Proof Yard Hydrant?įrost-proof yard hydrants are standard water fixtures for outdoor use in northern climates where freezing temperatures are common. This is done simply by loosening the hydrant head – the inner parts swivel freely so that the head connecting rod and plunger can be pulled out as a single unit. Their design enables the entire inner parts assembly to be removed to replace worn parts after years of service. All yard hydrants can be easily maintained and repaired completely above ground, no digging required. Installed anywhere with a water supply, a frost-free valve operates below the frost line and all water drains from the pipe after closing, making them ideal for supplying water to unheated sheds and barns. Yard hydrants provide running water for livestock, Building sites, lawn, and garden.